Showing posts with label Cosmetic labels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cosmetic labels. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Cosmetic Labels 101: The "claim" game.

Hello girls :)

This is the third article in the series "Cosmetic Labels 101".This article reveals to you all "the game of claims".

We almost always fall for those extravagant product claims..don't we? And don't you feel cheated when a product does/contains nothing like what it claimed? Let's see how this claim game is played by the cosmetic industry.

According to the "Cosmetics and Consumers" document on  consumereducation.in :

"No industry makes more extravagant claims for its products than the cosmetic industry." 

And i 100% agree with that statement! For how long have we been seeing the "Get 7 shades fairer in 14 days" S**t ??? and we all know how fake those claims are!(Forget 14 days,One of my cousin's family is using one of such c**p for more than 14 yrs now and their skin has not lightened even by 1 shade! Inturn,their skin got damaged beyond repair!!)


This does not stop at fairness creams.It applies to 99.9% of the products we see in the commercials!(including toothpastes!yes,toothpaste is considered a cosmetic too.)

And do you know that the cosmetic companies are allowed to exaggerate their claims to some extent so that it helps in selling their products?

And such exaggerations, which are permitted in advertising is generally referred to as "puffery".

But sometimes these claims exceed to such an extent that the consumer is left cheated.And there is even a term called "emotional ingredient" meaning, an ingredient whose mention on the label will tempt the  customer to buy it. For example,they incorporate some very well known beneficial stuff like almond oil/roses/strawberries/saffron/milk/some ayurvedic herbs etc., in their creams, lotions, shampoos etc.,and sing songs about that ingredient's presence to glory! However,the reality is,most of the times the product contains too little amounts of that 'ingredient in the limelight' to show any kind of benefits it is believed to provide.

So,aren't there any government/legal authorities who can control claims made by the cosmetic companies? Yes there are, But they don't seem to be bothered about this issue at all! If you've read my previous posts in this series you know who they are.If you haven't, then i suggest you read THIS and THIS posts first.

Now,lets see what one of the officials of the FDA has to say about this issue...

According to John Bailey, Director, Office of Cosmetics  and Colours, Food and Drug Administration, U.S.A., 
“Cosmetic industry sells an image and consumers can choose to believe those claims or not.”

!!!!!Ok Mr.,Now that you are giving "us" the choice,We choose NOT TO!!!!!

Baby products are included in this game too! Keep reading..

the following info is from consumereducation.in :

In the recent past, the Maharashtra FDA has been taking a number of consumer goods companies  to task on various consumer related issues. The most high profile so far has been the notices sent to
Johnson and Johnson and Wipro for their respective “baby oils” containing mineral oil, believed to be unfit for babies.

FDA, Maharashtra, investigated baby  products manufactured by M/s Johnson and Johnson Ltd. on the basis of a complaint received from the parent of a child in Amravati, Maharashtra. The complainant had alleged  that he had purchased Baby Oil, Batch Number, BM 3161,D/M Oct. 2003, for his child and the child was massaged by this oil. As a consequence of using this oil, the baby developed blisters on his skin.The use of the said baby oil was stopped on medical advise and thereafter the blisters also subsided. Then a complaint was lodged. As a consequence of the complaint, FDA Maharashtra investigated the complaint by collecting information from Johnson and Johnson, Ltd. relating to product composition, method of  manufacturing, method of testing, redressal of public complaints in respect of Johnson’s Baby Oil.FDA Maharashtra also decided to investigate other Johnson Baby Products along with “Johnson Baby Oil”  for the label claims.

Lets see what they found...

1) Johnson’s Baby Oil

2) Johnson’s Baby Hair Oil.

3) Baby Shampoo.

4) Johnson’s Baby Milk Soap


5) Johnson’s Baby Moisturizing Soap and Johnson’s Baby Moisturizing
Soap Blossoms 

6) Johnson’s Baby Lotion
 
7) Johnson’s Baby Milk Lotion
Shocking! Isn't it?

A show cause notice was issued to M/s Johnson and Johnson on 15th March 2005 in respect of all the baby products manufactured by them.FDA Maharashtra gave time to the company till 01/08/2005 to substantiate its claims, failing which it will take action.As a provincial regulator,the FDA does not have power to directly take any required action on the manufacturers.

It's 2012 and we still see 'Mineral oil' as the main ingredient on the label of johnson & johnson's baby oil!!!

This is India babes..we know how all the legal stuff gets managed here.If you're ready to feed the money hungry people you can even getaway with 'Arsenic' as the active ingredient! :-/

Not only 'johnson & johnson' but almost every commercial baby product manufacturer out there make false claims and uses harmful ingredients which you shouldn't be using on your baby's pure and precious skin/hair.And then they load up their ads with million tons of 'Mother-Baby' sentiment to sell their products.

So,ladies..ditch those commercial baby products and pamper you baby's skin with gentle all natural stuff which your grandma would've used on you.

And that is not the end of it..


The area in which the consumer is most exploited, cheated and mislead is the claim of ‘Naturals’ and ‘Herbals’ in cosmetic products.

Words on labels like "natural","safe" and "pure" have no definition in law and no relationship to the hazard inside the packaging.Acceptable levels of risk are entirely at the panel's (FDA's) discretion.

The California Department of Human Services found in a random sample of herbal stores that nearly one third of these “natural” remedies contained either heavy metals (such  as lead, arsenic and  mercury) or undeclared pharmaceuticals.

In order to understand what the “natural’ label says about a drug or cosmetic product, consumers need to understand how the government regulates the claim of natural. The Government agencies are still working in this direction and hence there are  no regulations or guidelines, regarding the use of ‘plant derived’ claims on these products.

Recently, Maharashtra FDA has taken steps to check this trend by sending show cause notices to   Ozone Pharmaceuticals for their ‘No Marks’ skin cream and sought certain clarifications from the company.According to FDA officials, the advertised claims of Ozone Ayruvedics,who are the manufacturers of the  ‘No Marks’ range of personal care products revealed that the company has been making misleading claims about the ‘No Marks’ cream, as it contains antibacterial and hyperaemic(blood circulation enhancing) agents in it, which comes under the category of drugs.

Hair dyes selling as Kali Mehandi has been found to contain Para Phenylene Diamine (PPD) along with Henna by a consumer activist group and reported in CONSUMER VOICE.

OTHER COSMETIC COMPANIES HAULED UP BY FDA MAHARASHTRA:

• Wipro – Baby Oil
• Emami
• Wipro Consumer care
• Ozone Ayruvedics ‘No Marks’ Personal Care Products
• R S Hair Care – Ayurvedic Hair Dye

And there are thousands of companies like these out there which are making false claims and cheating millions of consumers.

Here are some of the loophole's in canadian law which also applies in India:

*Products marketed as "Fragrance free" or "Unscented" may contain fragrance ingredients in the form of 'masking agents' that prevent the brain from perceiving odour.

*Products regulated as "Drugs" on the basis of therapeutic claims (e.g.,tartar fighting toothpaste,bacteria-killing cleansers,face cream with sun protection) are only required to list 'active' ingredients.not complete list as required for products regulated as cosmetics.
  
Now this point takes us to the new kid on the block: "Cosmeceuticals"

Cosmeceuticals  are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids,intended to enhance the beauty  through ingredients that provide additional health-related function or benefit. They are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain ingredients that influence the biological function of skin.

Though the claims made about drugs are subject to high scrutiny by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) review and approval process, cosmetics are however not subject to mandatory FDA review.Much confusion exists regarding the status of ‘cosmeceuticals’. Although,there is no legal class called  cosmeceuticals, this term has found application and recognition to designate the products at the border line between cosmetics and drugs. Cosmetics that make therapeutic claims are regulated as 'drugs and cosmetics' and must meet the labeling requirements for both. For such product, the regulations require that active ingredients be listed first on these products, followed by the list of cosmetic ingredients in order of decreasing predominance. Active ingredient is the chemical that makes the product effective and the manufacturer  must  have  proof  that  it  is safe for its intended use.

Some products that come under the "cosmeceuticals" category are: 'Products containing AHAs/BHAs/Retinoids','Anti aging creams with pharmaceutical grade actives','Dandruff shampoo','tar tar fighting toothpaste', etc.,

unsupervised or over use of some products containing such pharmaceutical grade actives may cause serious damage.

And finally,here's a table from Data on Indian Cosmetic Industry comparing three different cosmetic regulatory bodies of the world.You can see how weak our Indian cosmetic regulations are.






Need i say more?

ppphhheeewww!!! such a long post! But wait, this game isn't over yet! There's one more level called "Greenwashing". So,in the next article let's see how that level is played ;)

Love,
Siri
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NOTE: I referred many reliable resources which are listed below to gather this information.

References:

consumereducation.in  LINK

safecosmetics.org  LINK

davidsuzuki.org LINK

docstoc.com LINK

cdsco.nic.in LINK

Monday, June 11, 2012

Cosmetic Labels 101: The Game Of Cosmetic Regulation



Hi everyone :)

So,here's the second post of the series "Cosmetic Labels 101"-The Game Of Cosmetic Regulation.If you haven't read the first post in which i explained about the cosmetic regulatory bodies of India and the USA then click HERE and please read it first.In this post we are going to learn about how the regulatory bodies work,what they do/can do and what they don't/can't.

Let's start with the cosmetic regulation game of The USA first.Why? because in this case our indian regulation is a little dependant on their's as we learnt in the previous post.

So,as we learnt in the first post,the FDA is not just the government regulatory body that regulates the cosmetics but also is just the figurehead! (*Figurehead: A nominal leader or head without real power.)  

FDA has a program for the cosmetic companies called "Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program" (VCRP).The VCRP collects information on product ingredient listings and registration of manufacturers, packers and distributors.They can register with the FDA through this program.However,it is not mandatory and the participation in the program is entirely voluntary.

And there are these cosmetic industry trade organizations called PCPC and CIR which we talked about in my first post.

So, based on this,first let's see what the FDA can not do.

What the FDA can not do:
  • The FDA doesn't test  everyday personal - care products for safety before they hit the market.
  • The FDA doesn't require companies to provide safety data about it's products or ingredients.
  • The FDA can't require product recall.The agency must go to court to remove misbranded and adulterated products from the market.
  • The FDA can't effectively and efficiently regulate cosmetics products without facing cumbersome legal proceedings with manufacturers.
  • The FDA can't require manufacturers to register their cosmetic establishments,file data on ingredients,or report cosmetic-related injuries.Instead,FDA relies on voluntary reporting of ingredients, injuries and establishments.
  • The number and location of companies that manufacture and distribute personal care products. The FDA’s primary enforcement tool is facility inspections, but they can’t inspect facilities they don’t know exist.
  • The extent of health impacts from harmful ingredients. Companies are not required to report adverse health effects to the FDA or share studies they may have conducted on chronic health effects.
  • The presence or potential health impact of nanomaterials in cosmetics.
According to safecosmetics.org: "The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act (FFDCA) includes 112 pages of standards for food and drugs, but just a single page for cosmetics."

As you can see,FDA's rules about cosmetics barely even exist.It doesn't even have the authority to give pre-market approval of finished products.So,When a company says that it complies with FDA's rules,don't trust them blindly because there is not a whole lot they are complying with.

So what does/can the FDA do regarding cosmetics?


Nothing at all!!!

Now comes the PCPC-Personal Care Product Council & CIR-Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

So,as we learnt in the previous post,PCPC is a powerful industry group that represents more than six hundred cosmetic companies.It is madeup of Lobbyists(A lobbyist is an activist who seeks to persuade members of the government to enact legislation that would benefit their group),Scientists,Policy experts,Public relation folks and some guy who used to be the head of FDA's cosmetic department.

But according to the book 'No More Dirty Looks': "It's also the group that powers up the PR machine when someone says cosmetics might not be so good for you."

PCPC has a history of lobbying against proposed regulations on cosmetics! It brings up the CIR when questions arise about the lack of proper regulation.

Now let's see what the CIR ha done till now: It  is made up of nine voting members who give the PCPC recommendations on different ingredients.It does not itself test the ingredients or products, though.Instead,it's panel reviews scientific research on high priority ingredients and meets four times a year to discuss what it has found and then gives safety recommendations.Reps from big companies are also present during these meetings to take part in the discussions.(Isn't something smelling fishy?).

From 1976,the CIR assessed 1,468 ingredients for safety.That's 11% of the ingredients listed in the cosmetic ingredient dictionary that the PCPC uses! To this day only 9 ingredients have been deemed unsafe for use in cosmetics.

FYI: Europe has banned more than 1000 ingredients for use in personal care products!!!

Now,that should explain what game these regulatories are playing!

Let's jump to India now..

Ok..so,according to consumereducation.in:

"The cosmetic products  have  to  be  formulated  and manufactured in accordance with Schedule M-II of Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 and Indian Standards issued by BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards),New Delhi, GMP guidelines of USFDA as well as guidelines of CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) which is now known as PCPC(Personal Care Product Council), IFRA (International  Fragrance Association) and similar bodies." 

So,what did you understand after reading the above paragraph? Yes,you are right..the Indian cosmetic regulations are dependant on PCPC and USFDA! 

Aren't there any rules in our "Drugs and Cosmetics act" that do not depend on other regulatories? Hmmm..Actually yes, there are! or better say, there 'is'! Let's have a look at what it is:
  • Pre-market approval of a product before it hits the market is mandatory in India.
But how far do you think is this useful? Not much,because if the product satisfies the the USFDA or the PCPC's criteria for safety then they get easily approved..and we saw how those criterias are a little loose.

Our rules for imported cosmetics are little loose too! Let's see what's in our Drugs and Cosmetics act:

"No cosmetic shalt be imported  unless  it complies  with the specifications  prescribed under schedule S and schedule Q or any other standards of quality and safety,applicable  to it,and other provisions under the rules.In case the cosmetic is not included under schedules,it shall meet with specificaffons  under  the rules and standards applicable to it in the country of origin."

So,the cosmetics which are not included under the mentioned schedules can easily make an entry in to the market without being questioned it's safety!

However,on a global scale, countries are reaching a consensus on the standards of quality of cosmetics by coming under a common umbrella of CHIC (Cosmetic Harmonization and International Cooperation) initiated in 19995 and revised from time to time." It is  not known as CHIC anymore.That process has now been superseded by ICCR (International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation).I tried so hard to find out what exactly this ICCR does but couldn't!


Anyways,my final word is: Our Indian regulations are no better than the USA's. :(

So,this is how game of cosmetic regulation is being played.In the next post we'll see how The 'Claim' Game is being played by the USA and Indian regulatories.

If you find this info useful,then please share it with as many friends and dear ones as you can to spread the awareness.

Love,
Siri.

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References:

Please see the "References" section of THIS post.

Base image source-Link

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Cosmetic labels 101-Cosmetic Regulatory Bodies of India and USA.



Hi everyone :)

Welcome to the first post under Cosmetic labels 101: "Cosmetic Regulatory Bodies of India and USA." in which you are going to learn about cosmetic regulations and regulatory bodies in India and USA.This post acts as a foundation to first make you understand from where it all starts and then move to other issues in upcoming posts. I chose to explain about the regulatory bodies of only India and USA because they are the origin of majority the cosmetics which are flooding the Indian market and also our Indian regulatory laws are a little dependent on some of the guidelines of Cosmetic regulatories of the USA.However, i do talk about a point or two regarding other major cosmetic regulatory bodies present in the world wherever necessary.

First comes our own Indian cosmetic regulatories:

In India the regulation of cosmetics is done according to the laws under "The Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940".


"The Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940" is a Consumer Protection Legislation which is mainly concerned with the standards and quality of drugs and cosmetics manufactured  and sold in India.

The cosmetic products  have  to  be  formulated  and manufactured in accordance with Schedule M-II of Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 and Indian Standards issued by "BIS"-Bureau of Indian Standards.

Ok..but what is the regulatory body that implements all these laws to regulate cosmetics in India???

Well..the statement "To each his own" fits perfectly as an answer to this question! Yes! Each state in India has it's own Drug and Cosmetic regulatory body or the 'FDA'(Food & Drug Administration)!!! All of these regulatory bodies/administrations are under the control of central government of India.

For example: Maharashtra has it's own FDA(Food & Drug Administration) click HERE to visit their website.

These individual regulatory bodies are responsible for the License,Manufacture,Pre market approval and Sale of the cosmetics manufactured in their respective states and also responsible for the Registration and sale of imported cosmetics.

Quality control and testing of the finished cosmetic products is done by the "CDL"-Central Drugs Laboratory" which is a national statutory laboratory of the government of India for Quality Control of Drugs and Cosmetics under the direct administrative control of the Drugs Controller General, Directorate General of Health Services, Nirman Bhawan, New Delhi, Ministry of Health & Family Welfare.
Wait! what about the regulation and evaluation of the safety of raw material or ingredients before they take the form of a finished product?? 

Well..this is where our laws depend a little on the USA! Yes, we depend on "PCPC"- Personal Care Products Council and "CIR"-Cosmetic Ingredient Review which is a PCPC funded panel for the cosmetic ingredient safety data.

We'll learn about the PROS & CONS of this kind of individual regulatory bodies in the upcoming posts.

Next comes the cosmetic regulatiories of the USA:

The Official government Food, Drug and Cosmetic regulatory body of the USA is the USFDA/FDA(United States Food And Drug Administration).Unlike india there are no seperate regulatory bodies for each state in the USA.

But,does the FDA have full on powers to regulate the cosmetics? Seems that it doesn't and is just a figurehead!!!
*Figurehead: A nominal leader or head without real power.

So,who has the real power then?

Well.."The cosmetic industry itself"!

Yes! the cosmetic industry formed it's own self-regulated group called "PCPC"-Personal Care Products Council.(It was formerly called CFTA-Cosmetics,Toiletry and Fragrance association).This is a big,huge and powerful industry group that represents more than six hundred cosmetic companies which account for almost all the products on the shelves in the USA (L'Oreal,Revlon,Avon,Elizabeth Arden,Chanel,Estee Lauder,Johnson & Johnson's,Clarins,Mary Kay,Colgate,Philosophy and etc.,etc.....)

The PCPC also funds the voluntary industry program known as the "CIR"- Cosmetic Ingredient Review process to evaluate the safety of personal care product ingredients.

Finally,the Fragrance regulation:
The fragrance industry allover the world is not regulated by any official government regulatories!

Instead there is a private trade organisation called "IFRA"-International Fragrance Association.IFRA is the trade organisation that represents the fragrance industry allover the world.The membership is is available to all the fragrance ingredient and compound manufacturers and suppliers.However,the membership program is voluntary which means a particular company may or may not choose to be a part of it.

We'll learn about the PROS and CONS of this kind of self regulations in the upcoming posts.

Other major cosmetic regulatory bodies in the world include the European,ASEAN(southeast asia),Japanese and Canadian regulatories.

In the next post we are going to learn about how the regulatory bodies explained in this post work,what they do/can do and what they don't/can't.

Love,
Siri.
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NOTE: I referred many reliable resources which are listed below to gather this information.

References:

consumereducation.in  LINK 

cdsco.nic.in  LINK  LINK

docstoc.com  LINK

mohfw.nic.in LINK

safecosmetics.org LINK

sourcewatch.org LINK

The book: "No More Dirty Looks".

Monday, May 21, 2012

New Series: Cosmetic Labels 101


NOTE: Cosmetics = Skin care,Hair care,Personal care,grooming and Makeup products.

Do you read the labels of your cosmetics? If yes then do you think cleverly before falling for those claims?(including 'this'-free,'that'-free, no-'this',no-'that', contains-'this',contains-'that', enriched with-'this',enriched with-'that', 'made with all-'this',made with all-'that' etc.,) And do you consider the safety of every single ingredient listed before deciding to buy that product? (Ya..i know we are no scientists :P) As far as i know,majority of us lookout for these three ingredients and try to avoid them:

'SLS/SLES' (Sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate), 'Parabens' and sometimes 'Silicones'... Right?

But..Do you know that there over 3000 ingredients(and growing) which are used in our cosmetics that are considered to be unsafe/toxic!!!??? And don't even talk about the claims..


Now for a second you may think that cosmetic ingredients and claims are regulated by some government body or the other and they control and approve what goes in to them and conduct rigorous clinical tests and trials before approving certain ingredient to be safe and certain product to be effective.Right? Wrong!

There is really a lot going on behind the scenes in the cosmetic industry which most of us don't even have a clue of!

So,here comes the new series 'Cosmetic labels 101' to educate you about the stuff you need to be careful of and provide you with all the info you need to know.I'll break it up in to several parts..each post will deal with a different topic.

Hope this series will help to make you go green and clean :)

Love,
Siri.